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A tapas revolution in the city of Seville

The traditional way of enjoying bite-sized morsels in the Andalusian capital is on your feet at the bar, but more and more venues are laying on tables for patrons and updating their offerings for the 21st century

Seville tapas bar La Azotea.
Seville tapas bar La Azotea.

For some time now, the classic Seville tapas scene has been in a state of flux. People are still consuming these bite-sized morsels standing up, as has always been the tradition, but the experience is being enjoyed more and more by patrons sitting at tables. All over the city, there are bars, grocer’s shops and design spaces springing up, all with an original, 21st-century take on the culinary classic, and with tall stools and tables to eat from, rather than the classic bar counter tops used for informal eating. Going on a tapas tour in Seville is more exciting than ever. Papas aliñás, or, seasoned fries, cones filled with fried fish, and portions of jamón live in harmony with new recipes of culinary fusion. Always following the essential practice idea of sharing, which, in the Andalusian capital, is more a philosophy of living than it is a way of eating.

1. La Azotea

La Azatoea in Seville.
La Azatoea in Seville.

One of the best bars in Seville, with four different premises. Of particular note is the one located on Jesús del Gran Poder street.The produce is always drawn from whatever is in season, and chosen skillfully. Of note are the succulent traditional stews, such as the cod with chickpeas. At the bar, you’ll be tempted by the rations of seafood, cured meats, mushrooms in season, and red tuna…

Calle Jesús del Gran Poder, 31. Phone number: +34 955 11 67 48.

2. Cañabota

Boasting a Japanese-style bar, high tables, an open kitchen and a fishmonger’s counter with produce that will leave you slack-jawed, Cañabota makes use of excellent raw ingredients, and specialty dishes including fried potatoes and cuttlefish roe, cold garlic and apple soup, and sea bream with jalapeños.

Calle José Gestoso, 19. Phone: +34 954 87 02 98.

3. Lalola Taberna

Tapas at Lalola Taberna.
Tapas at Lalola Taberna.

In the trendy Triana neighborhood, Javier Abascal works with offal, Iberian pork and any local products in season. Simple, homemade dishes with roots that can be traced back to the oldest Spanish cookbooks. Seasoned carrots, pigs trotters, and Iberian ham served with eggplant hummus are among the attractions.

Calle Vírgen del Águila, 8. Phone: +34 955 13 83 59.

4. La fábrica de Besana

The tapas are on the small side here, but they’re immaculately turned out. It’s been years since Curro Noriega and Mario Ríos, from famed Spanish eatery El Celler de Can Roca, laid the foundations for this tapas restaurant in the nearby municipality of Utrera. Now they have brought their wares to the capital.

Calle Correduría, 1. Phone: +34 954 37 62 00.

5. Antojo

An offer of tapas and dishes that are meant for sharing. Among the more creative culinary feats are the eggs still with their shells, and the charcoal grilled cod – both of which are served in a highly original way.

Calle Calatrava, 44. Phone: +34 955 44 00 30.

Abacería La Niña Bonita.
Abacería La Niña Bonita.

6. Abacería La Niña Bonita

Wines, beers, cured meats and tinned produce. The culinary offerings here are designed to evoke the grocery stores of yore, as is the decor. You’ll be surprised to find that some of the dishes on the menu arrive from the other side of the street, delivered direct from sister venue Antojo.

Calle Calatrava, 5. Phone: +34 955 44 00 30.

7. Ovejas Negras

A dish at Ovejas Negras.
A dish at Ovejas Negras.

Juan Manuel García and Genoveva Torres have revolutionized Seville, with venues where the classic tapas counter gives way to tables for sit-down eating, both of the bite-sized fare and larger dishes. It’s quality cuisine at affordable prices, with classic tapas such as Spanish potato salad with breadsticks, and more international dishes such as gyozas.

Calle Hernando Colón, 8. Phone: +34 955 12 38 11.

8. Eslava

One of the most famous bars in Seville, in which tradition and modernity coexist. The delicious Iberian ham is cut for you while you wait – you can pass the time enjoying the slow-cooked boletus mushroom quiche.

Calle Eslava, 3. Phone: +34 954 90 65 68.

El Rinconcillo, in Seville.
El Rinconcillo, in Seville.

9. El Rinconcillo

A pure tapas venue, which was founded way back in 1670. Cod in batter, spinach and chickpeas, salad, quality dried meat…

Calle Gerona, 40. Phone: +34 954 22 31 83.

10. Los Coloniales

A variety of tapas options inspired by tradition. Expect affordable prices, large food portions, and efficient service.

Calle Plaza de Cristo de Burgos, 19. Phone: +34 954 50 11 37.

La Mamarracha in Seville.
La Mamarracha in Seville.

11. La Mamarracha

Tapas on the grill in a place that is always packed. Things to eat: fried chicken, rib of Iberian pork, lamb from Ávila…

Calle Hernando Colón, 1-3. Phone: +34 955 12 39 11.

12. Sal Gorda

Creative tapas. Unusual suggestions that have turned out to be a hit in this local tapas bar. Artisan beer and organic wine to accompany aged beef, croquettes in stew or sea bass ceviche.

Calle Alcaicería de la Loza, 17. Phone: +34 955 38 59 72.

English version by Laura Rodríguez.

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